CHEF’S SIGNATURE DISHES

Roe deer


Roe deer

Marinated in Pastis with black fennel and green anise then seared; served with assorted cabbage and crystal sauce.

Every year the game season is a great joy for me. To some extent game is a metaphor for my cuisine: the power in taste and delicacy in expression…

This year I wanted to make roe deer in Pastis, a winter dish in the spirit of summer… influenced by my attraction to Provence, without a doubt! I love Pastis for its anise and liquorice notes and for its rich flavor palette. This alcohol beverage is interesting to me because it adds multifaceted flavor. For many years, I smoked the roe deer meat before searing it in order to add a special flavor.

This year, I have changed my approach, in favor of marinating, to achieve elasticity and juiciness in the meat. My marinade consists of Pastis, black Indian fennel and green anise. Green anise is one of my favorite spices. It is a perennial herb that grows throughout the Mediterranean. Green anise has a fresh liquorice flavor, and black fennel intensifies the anise flavor.

In this dish, the textures are important to the balance of density and juiciness. Marinating and then searing the meat helps achieve this goal.
I accompany the roe deer loin with assorted cabbage: red cabbage in the form of pickles, Cabus cabbage, Romanesco cabbage, and Brussels sprouts sautéed in anise butter. Cabbage is a remarkable vegetable, its preparation requires special sensitivity, and its crisp texture is very interesting.
The crystal sauce, binding all the elements of the dish, is very delicate and light. It lies as a sort of shadow, allowing game meat to fully express itself.